How to Install a Door. Step 1 Measure the old door and order the new one. Photo 1 Pry off the interior trim. Robin thought this was a pretty neat trick. How To Install A Shingle Roof On A Shed Free Shred Guitar Books Pdf How To Install A Shingle Roof On A Shed 8x6 Tray Sealer Plans For Building A Wooden Utility Shed. How to Install a Grab Bar. Grab bars provide extra security in the bathtub for that first slippery step. Installed properly, goodquality grab bars are specifically. Protecting the wall with a putty knife under the pry bar meant she wouldnt have to repaint the entry. One of the biggest mistakes homeowners make is to grab a door off the home center shelf and expect it to fit right. So my first coaching task was to help Robin and Danny measure for and order the door. First we measured the width and height of the door. Then Robin carefully pried off the interior trim Photo 1 so we could measure the rough opening, which is the width between the studs and the height from the floor to the header. Protecting the wall with a putty knife saved the wall paint. On Monday, we learned that Microsoft was killing off the iconic Microsoft Paint program after 32 years and replacing it with Paint 3D in its upcoming Windows 10 update. GraBars Jeep JK Grab Handles GraBars Jeep JK Grab Handles. If youre looking for a high quality, super strong grab handles for your JK that will not require you to. Shop for bathroom grab bars shower you will love online at Target. Free shipping and save 5 every day with your Target REDcard. Install a vertical grab bar inside your shower 18 to 24 inches from the showerhead end. If youre installing a grab bar for someone with an injury or disability, have. Neat trick Robin. Next we measured from the back of the outside trim, or brick molding, to the face of the interior wall to find the jamb width. Ordering the new door with the right jamb width ensures that the interior trim fits without the need for added jamb extensions. Finally we went back outside and measured the width from the outside of the brick molding and the height from the bottom of the sill to the top of the exterior trim. RON HAZELTON You know, one of the things that I really like about my sliding door here is that I can sit in the kitchen, read the paper and take in the view at the. Get that killer level look and run up to 32inch tires with our 1. Leveling Suspension Kit for 99 06 Chevy GMC 1500. This torsion bar leveling kit. New York importer, distributor and fabricator of natural stone products and ceramic tiles. To avoid having to patch siding, its best to order a door assembly that will fill the space. This may mean asking for special exterior trim thats wider than standard 2 in. If youre ordering a door and sidelights, you can adjust the width by substituting a different size sidelight or by adjusting the space between the door and the sidelight. The door and sidelight were assembled at the plant and arrived as a single unit. Installation of a door without a sidelight is the same. With the door size, jamb width and dimensions of the rough and exterior opening in hand, Robin and Danny went door shopping. They discovered that the standard configuration of a 3 ft. The salesperson recommended spending a little extra money to add a spacer between the door and the sidelight. This corrected the width problem. Robin and Danny could have ordered a custom height door and frame for several hundred dollars more, but they decided to live with the height difference and cover the gap with trim later. We decided to add a strip of plywood under the sill to raise the door slightly, so in the end the shorter height worked out perfectly. I was shocked at all the door options available. The choices were limitless. Danny. Robin and Danny wanted a door that looked like wood, minus the maintenance hassles. WgPvkDS9eE/hqdefault.jpg' alt='How To Install A Grab Bar Without Studs' title='How To Install A Grab Bar Without Studs' />They chose a Therma Tru fiberglass door with a surprisingly realistic looking oak wood grain. The cost of the door and sidelight unit was 1,3. Fortunately for us, anyway, the door assembly plant wasnt too busy and the door was delivered about 1. Step 2 Remove the old door. Photo 2 Tear off the brick molding. Danny cut the caulk along the edges of the brick molding with a utility knife so it would be easier to remove. But the molding was still stubborn and came off in pieces. Photo 3 Free the door frame. Heres Robin with her brand new recip saw cutting through the nails so the door frame will come out easily. Shes looking forward to the next demolition project so she can hone her sawing skills. Photo 4 Remove the old frame. Danny didnt have any trouble getting the frame out after removing the trim and cutting the nails and screws. The sill was stuck down with caulk, but broke free as Danny tilted the frame. Robin was surprised at how easy the door and frame were to remove, especially after the interior and exterior trim were off Photos 1 and 2. And she got to learn a new skilloperating a reciprocating saw Photo 3. If you dont have a recip saw, you can use a hacksaw blade. Step 3 Prep the opening. Photo 5 Check the sill. Robin was a lot more flexible than Danny, so he let her do most of the low work. Here shes checking the sill area to make sure its level. Theyve already added a layer of plywood to raise the door a little. Working in older houses or where the door is exposed to the weather, I often have to repair a water damaged subfloor or otherwise rebuild the sill area before installing the new door. In this case, the subfloor was in good condition, but we noticed that the new door sill was thinner than the old one. After taking a few measurements, we decided to add a strip of plywood over the subfloor to raise the door so it would clear the entry rug Photo 5. Robin checked to be sure the sill area was level. We could have shimmed under the plywood with strips of building paper or scrap vinyl flooring to level the floor if necessary. Since our door was covered by an overhanging roof, we didnt need additional protection from water, but if you install a door thats exposed to the weather, be sure to add a sill pan to protect the subfloor one brand is Jamsill Guard, jamsill. Step 4 Set the new door in place. Photo 6 Caulk the opening. Dannys done a lot of caulking, so this part was easy. He inspected the bottom of the door frame and did some measuring to be sure the beads of caulk aligned with flat spots on the sill. When Danny finished caulking the sill, he caulked around the perimeter of the opening too. Photo 7 Set the door frame. Robin and Danny could rest easy now. The door frame slid into the opening as planned and the heavy lifting part of the job was done. With the old door out and the opening prepared, we were ready to install the new door and sidelight. Before we started, I explained to Robin and Danny that our goal was to set the new door frame in the opening and then adjust it with shims until the door fit perfectly. First we removed all the packing material from the new door and hoisted it into the opening to check the fit. The width was a little tight. We didnt have much wiggle room between the siding and the brick molding, but it was obvious we could make it work. So we removed the door unit and Danny applied heavy beads of polyurethane caulk to the sill and exterior sheathing Photos 6 and 7. Danny and Robin moved the door to the opening and tilted it into place Photo 7. Step 5 Shim, square and fasten the frame. Photo 8 Tack the top corners. Here Robin is trying out her nailing skills. The 1. 6 penny nails proved a bit much, though, so Danny took over the nailing duty. Photo 9 Plumb the hinge side. Robin was a natural with the level, so shes checking to make sure the jamb is plumb while Danny makes adjustments from the inside. Photo 1. 0 Shim the door frame. Danny slid pairs of shims behind the hinges and along the sidelight on the opposite side. He positioned the shims to create an even gap around the door. Photo 1. 0A Close up of shims. Use pairs of shims to bridge gaps. Photo 1. 1 Secure the frame with screws. After checking to make sure the door was contacting the weather stripping evenly and operating smoothly, Danny drilled countersink holes and drove 3 in. To secure the hinge side, he removed one short screw from each hinge and replaced it with a long screw. Now we were ready to tack it in and add shims. Shimming a door is the most critical part of the installation since its when you tweak the frame to make the door fit perfectly and operate smoothly. I helped Robin and Danny center the top of the door frame with an equal caulk space between the siding and the trim on each side, and then tack the two top corners with 1. Photo 8. Next, Robin held a level to the hinge side trim while Danny pried on the frame until the jamb was plumb Photo 9. How to Install a Sliding Patio Door DIY Projects Videos. RON HAZELTON You know, one of the things that I really like about my sliding door here is that I can sit in the kitchen, read the paper and take in the view at the same time. However at night, I get the feeling sometimes that were the ones that are the view. That were actually on stage in here and people walking by on the outside, can look right in and see whats going on. So, my wife and I have decided weve really gotta do something to give us some privacy. Now we thought about putting up a shade or mini blind, but you know, Ive got two children and two dogs and I thought that they would probably take their toll on them, plus every time I want to go in or out, Ive gotta raise and lower them. So what Ive decided to do instead, is to replace these doors with ones that have the window treatments actually inside the glass. In order to prevent damage to the surrounding wall, Im using the utility knife to cut through the paint and caulk around the edges of the door casing. Then, I drive a putty knife into the scene and pull the casing away, just enough to insert a pry bar then work the molding free. By taking off this strip at the top of the frame, I can remove the sliding door. Anything I can take out of the frame now means less weight to handle when it comes time for removal. On the outside, I remove the screen and cut through the caulk at the edges of the exterior trim. Well, I have an interesting problem or maybe I should say challenge right here. I want to remove this piece of wood trim, but I cant get a pry bar behind it. Its kind of sitting behind the siding or shingles on this and the door frame over here. So what I want to do is locate the nails, the face nails right here, and to do that, Im not gonna use this but Im gonna use this. Its actually a magnet. Ill put it here on the casing, the trim, move it around and uh, here we go. So I know that right behind this is where that nail is and thats where Ill start my digging. This terrific tool called a tigers paw has sharp tines that burrow into the wood and grip the shaft of a nail. When the opposite end of the tool is pushed downward, the buried nail is pulled to the surface. Then it can be removed with a flat bar or hammer. With the nails out of the way, the wood trim pries off easily. I find a few nails through this plastic fin, which the tigers paw makes short work of. Sliding doors are installed in different ways. The trick is to find all the screws and nails, securing it to the framing. In my case, the frame is attached on the left side and along the top. I pull off the sill support just to be sure there arent any screws through the bottom. Next, I take out the fixed door panel and sure enough, there are more screws down the right side of the frame. With everything removed, I try to tap the frame free. Well try is the operative word here. MUSICAfter a lot of hammering, I finally discover one final screw hidden up inside the latch plate. Finally, the frame gives up its grip. Well, the old door is out. Now your door might come out differently. Couple of things to keep in mind. Be patient and look for any hidden fasteners, screws or nails, because even one of them can keep the frame from coming out easily. How To Install Xfce Theme Manager Setup. Now I have to do a few things to prepare this rough opening for the new door, and the first one is to make sure that the sill down here is level and that the sides are plumb. Good. And excellent. After measuring the opening, I find that its just a bit too large for the new door, so I nail on strips of plywood to reduce it to the correct size. The next step in preparing the opening is making it absolutely water tight. This foil tape has a butyl rubber adhesive backing. I press the tape firmly in place, making sure to run it at least six inches up the jamb. At the corners, I make two small cuts then fold the tape over the edges. I put down a second strip on the threshold, then apply it along the entire opening, again making sure to wrap the corners. I put back the sill support I removed earlier and nail it in place. On top of the foil tape, I put down three beads of silicone that will form a weathertight seal at the bottom of the door sill. Well, Id say its time to put this door in. Now, important thing is, I want to put the bottom of the door in first and then tilt it up, so that I dont disturb these beads of caulk down here. Now even though the sliding panel has been removed, this door is heavy. So Ive asked my friend Jeff to give me a hand lifting it into place. Driving a couple of roofing nails through the fin, holds the door in position temporarily. Inside, I check the sill for level and the jambs for plumb. Then begin shimming the door to hold it securely in place. Next, I run two screws through the latch side of the frame, through the shims and into solid wood. Then go back outside to put the rest of the nails in the metal fin. Before I put screws through the sill, I fill the holes with silicone to make certain there will be no leaks around the fasteners. Finally, I drive in screws at the top. Now that door is not going anywhere. Outside, I place one final layer of butyl backed aluminum tape on top of a nailing fin. Then, Jeff and I lift the sliding door onto the bottom track. Next, I install the exterior wood trim, first on the top then on the sides. Ive cut it narrow enough to leave an expansion gap between the trim and the frame. Into that gap, I first foam backer rod, then fill the remaining space with silicone sealant. If the wood trim expands during humid weather, the backer rod and sealant will compress, preventing the expanding wood from deforming the door frame. Back inside, I trim the shims and begin filling the space around the frame with low expansion insulating foam. Its important not to use high expansion foam that could distort the frame and cause the door to bind. Well, day has turned into evening, but before I stop, I want to install the interior door casing. Tomorrow, its all about the decorative touches. First thing in the morning, I grab the door hardware out of the van and put it on. To install the window treatments, I just open the interior glass panel and snap them in place. Ive got my choice of mini blinds, shades, or grilles. Now, from the outside, what I like about these doors is that theyre aluminum clad and that means no painting. And on the inside, I just love the fact that the window treatments are between the glass. No cords, theyre virtually dust free and because the grilles themselves are also inside, theyre a cinch to clean. Now if you look through both of these doors, you wont see a screen and thats because its right inside here. It rolls out when I want it and rolls back when I dont. And of course when it comes to energy efficiency, these windows are state of the art. Two pieces of glass with argon gas in between for insulation value and the glass itself has a low E coding on it that will filter out ultraviolet light and prevent fading on draperies, carpets and fabrics. But you know what I like best about these I got exactly what I wanted. I can sit here and enjoy my view when I want to, but if I want my privacy, all Ive got to do is that.